Notes from the Sabbatical Journey (2004)

of Gregory Ledbetter

 

It is Friday afternoon (June 11) at 5:00 p.m.   Jordan and I made it to Tel Aviv OK yesterday.   All in all, it was a pretty uneventful trip.   You would have LOVED flying in and out of Switzerland ... it is GORGEOUS!  You also would have loved flying over all the islands in the Adriatic Ocean on our way to Israel.   We got our car (a boring Hyundai Elantra) and drove up to Mar Elias in Ibillin (northwest of Nazareth).   We had a few driving detours, but nothing serious.   We got to Ibillin around 8:00 p.m.   We were expecting that they'd already eaten dinner, but it turns out that they were sitting in a garden behind the guest house just starting their meal.   Abuna was there along with about 8-10 other people.   They were seated at a long table underneath olive trees with several candles burning.   They seated me next to Abuna while Jordan sat down with some others.   It was a most EXTRAORDINARY evening.   All the while I thought this was an every evening kind of gathering when in fact it was a bit of a going away party for Abuna (who was departing the next evening for India) and a Swiss couple who are helping start a "Peace University" on the campus.   Our good fortune at being there on that particular night was absolutely extraordinary.   The down side of the trip so far is that Jordan is sick (though he seemed to be enjoying the trip immensely, otherwise). By the end of dinner (where he put his head on the table and fell asleep) he was not feeling well at all.   By morning when I looked in, his temperature was up (approx. 101-102) and he still felt pretty rotten.   It's now 5:00 p.m. and he still isn't feeling much better.   Pierre (Swiss couple) is at a homeopath's in a neighboring village right now and is trying to get something to bring back to help.  If  Jordan isn't feeling better by morning, I will take him to see the doctor/homeopath.

 

 Jordan and I are in Jerusalem ... it is un ... be ... liev ... able.   It is like Rome, Cortona, Carcassone and Mont St. Michel all put together.   We are staying at Ecce Homo in the Old City.   It is a French convent as far as I know.   It is beautiful ... it has these amazing rooftop areas where you can look out over the whole city.   Astounding.   Last night, Jordan and I went to this amazing restaurant as we drove back home.   The waiter brought us about 8 bowls of different dips and sauces and a plate of nan-like bread.

 

 Yesterday we went to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre--supposedly the holiest site/spot in Christendom.   It has to be the oddest "holy site" I've ever seen.   Well, we've got places to go, people to see, salesmen to brush off (Jordan's having a great time haggling).

 

We've been in Jerusalem since Sunday evening.   It's Wednesday (June 16) at 12:30 p.m. right now.   We were going to go to Neve Shalom this afternoon, but we've extended our stay in Jerusalem until Thursday afternoon. We were able to make arrangements to go with CPT [Christian Peacemaker Teams] to Hebron tomorrow (Thursday) morning.  We're traveling with two British nuns--real spunky types in their 60's. It should be a real eye opener.   Boy, we are close to things here.   The wall demonstrations are going on all around us--thought not actually in the Old City where things are usually pretty calm.  Yesterday, we had lunch at "Cafe Europe" where European is a hamburger and fries.   Jordan loved it.   The owner was educated at the University of Kansas in the early 80's.   It feels SO ancient.  Jordan and I are in an internet cafe near Jaffa gate, which is the main entrance into the Old City of Jerusalem.  I have a cup of Turkish coffee steaming in front of me.  As far as I can tell, Turkish coffee is the same as Arabic coffee, but without the sugar (it actually tastes salty).   They both have cardamom ground up in them and are very strong. Yum!

 

Today Jordan and I will follow the stations of the cross ending up at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We'll also try to visit the Temple Mount which is strictly muslim now. The Dome of the Rock is the third holiest site in Islam. The church of the Holy Sepulchre is supposedly the holiest site in Christendom. We're trying to track down Bob Holmes right now. We went to the Christian Info Center and they sent us to the Greek Patriarch whose head is a Basilian priest like Bob. He didn't have a clue, but I picked up your e-mail with the phone numbers of local CPT folk ... You would be going nuts ... though you'd find the constant harrassment by the merchants a bit challenging (not that bad, though) ... you just cruise through and say "Bukrah" (tomorrow) or "La" (No) or "Marhaba" (Hello).

 

I had breakfast this morning with two American nuns (Vallejo and Detroit) and an Italian artist who has done mosaic work all over the old city including the Dome of the Rock. Today we are going to go on an underground tunnel tour, visit the Wailing/Western Wall, go to the Citadel of David and then out to pizza. Tomorrow morning we meet the nuns at 8:30, then walk to the Damascus gate and meet a car that will take us to Hebron (via the crossing points which can take up to 2 hours each way ... I guess).

 

 We went to Hebron today (June 19) with two British women--a nun and a Methodist minister (approx. 65 and 55 in age).   It was an astounding trip.   We had to go through several checkpoints ... walked into the center of Old Hebron. It's like a set from a World War II movie.  Barbed wire everywhere ... like a ghost town in many places where there used to be crowded markets.  Heavily armed Israeli sentries EVERYWHERE ... on the streets, in bunkers on roofs, pointing their guns at you frequently.  It is evil what is being done to the Palestinians.    Of all the places I've been on this trip (this was one of them ... heh, heh), this is the place where I wish the most that I'd had a camera.  Unbelievable.  Nearly all the people we meet had VERY strong opinions about Jews and Israel and not afraid to voice them.  It was a very interesting conversation.  On the food front, my diet has pretty much gone by the wayside, but we're walking enough that it balances out.  The imams have just started their 12:30 call to prayer from the minarets ... they do it 4 or 5 times a day ... it's one of my favorite things about being here.   It makes the city feel very ancient and middle eastern.   Oh yes, we also visited the mosque in Hebron where Abraham, Sarah, Isaac and Rebbekah are buried. Wow!

 


Corsica

(June 20?) I am in an internet café in Bastia, Corsica. I was invited to dinner with four people in their late twenties (two from France and two from South Africa that I had met on the ferry earlier in the day. They are exceedingly nice here. Bastia is GORGEOUS. You absolutely would not believe this place. It is like Honfleur meets Italy.

 

... this is a pretty amazing place.

 

Things are going well here. I think today is about our tenth day here. We'll start doing concerts at the end of the week ... there's going to be a party held by the village (think Vermont) in our honor on Friday ... potluck dinner a la Corsica ... and we'll sing.

 

Yesterday (July 1) was an amazing day. After a morning and early afternoon preparing in small groups for tonight's concert (our first), we went to the beach for a picnic dinner and rehearsal.   Antony and I ran ... 8 km or about 5 miles.  When we got to the beach, we went into this little beachside cafe (it is a tiny hamlet with a cove, a rock beach, a small dock and a few "beach houses" ... rustic and glorious ... and just the one restaurant/hotel).   Then we went swimming for about an hour.   I borrowed swim goggles and saw about a dozen different species of little fish and one octopus!  Then we ate our picnic ... then we gathered around this little steps and swim platform ... with half of us in the water swimming ... and rehearsed from memory all our Georgian songs while the sun slowly set on us.  It was like being in the most unbelievable movie!   Then we went up on the jetty and watched the sun set the rest of the way ... a red ball sinking into the ocean. The temperature was perfect with only a light breeze. While half of the group rode up to Canari in the van, the other half of us went and had a pastis, talked and played boules.  Truly amazing.  We will have some nights like that ahead of us.  Tonight, the townspeople are putting on a big potluck dinner for us and we'll present a concert of about twenty songs.   We've learned over 30 songs in the past 10 days.

 

Wow ... a lot has happened the past three days. I think you last heard from me about Thursday (July 1) which is when we went to the beach, I think. It's Sunday evening now about 8:30. Friday we did our final preps for our concert that night. At 5:00 p.m. we entered the sanctuary of the 16th century church where we practice and it was standing room only. We did a 22 song program ... it went VERY well. Our last pre-encore song is a gorgeous and moving song that sounds like monks chanting. At the end, every jumped to their feet clapping and went into a "rhythmic clap" that means "encore". So we then sang the Corsican national anthem which made everyone in the room cry (and they remained standing as no one in Corsica will sit during the singing of their anthem ... they're not independent and so it has a whole lot more meaning than most national anthems). It was one of the most beautiful moments I have ever seen. Then we sang our "knockout" South African songs "Hai, hai, hai" ... we danced out through the back of the church while everyone clapped along ... un ... be ... lievable. Then they hosted a dinner on an upper terrace ... tons of pizza, wine, cakes, etc, etc. Yesterday we went into Bastia to get the rest of the vans. Antony and I went with my van into Bastia and did some picture downloads and had lunch. We then drove back to Canari (75 minutes) ... picked up a load of kids and drove 2 hours to a tiny village way up in the middle of Corsica to a song festival. I'll tell you in more detail when I see you, but it was a very interesting experience. Most of the non-main roads are narrower than one lane of a tiny American country road ... and these have a stripe painted down the middle. The van I drive barely fits on the road and then we encounter speeding mini-cars and cows. Everyone likes how I drive (people don't get sick which is a good thing).

 

After a jazz concert and dinner, we went back to the little church (in Vignale) and walked through this tiny door which put us directly on a stage in front of a packed house ... we sang an abbreviated set and then were followed by two of the most amazing (professional) groups. We got home at 1:45 a.m. We began singing at 9:45 p.m. Today we went to a wine festival in Luri (think of a Corsican Walnut Creek wine festival) where we met up with a fantastic Corsican polyphonic group that sang at the morning mass in Luri (we attended). Then we puttered around the festival the early afternoon until we joined three other groups in a concert at 4:00 p.m. We've just gotten back and it's good to be "home". This place has really taken on the role of home for awhile. It feels comforting and familiar. As we drive through the streets, people recognize us and greet us. Love, Greg

 

More on the 2004 Sabbatical.